Question: Are your methods safe for household pets?

Question: We were told by the original person who came to see what service we need that we would have to be out of the house a minimum of 4 hours, that our cats had to be out too, and that our fish probably wouldn’t make it.  I just wanted to make sure that what he said is true.

ANSWER You do NOT have to be out of the house, the pets need only be kept from treated surfaces until they (the surfaces) are dry….and cover the fish tanks/bowls.

Pesticides for household insects are designed to be applied at low concentrations, usually less than 1%. These concentrations are high enough to be effective in killing small insects, but pose no threat to people or pets.

Generally, the droplet size of household application equipment is large enough so that the material does not remain in the air for very long and there is little opportunity for exposure through breathing. Treated surfaces usually dry quickly, so there is little chance for exposure from them. The residue that remains on the surface will be toxic to insects, but presents no threat to people. It usually does not last very long, but long enough for the target insects to contact it and die. The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) maintains a website that may be helpful-www.epa.gov/pesticides

The best strategy to keep pets safe is to keep them off any treated surface until it is dry, and this may take 1-2 hours.

Related Questions:
The Orkin Man used the information above to also answer the following questions submitted by Orkin.com users.

• Question: I have carpenter ants and I’m afraid to use any pest control services because I have an exotic bird, 3 cats and many lizards and other reptiles.  Do you offer pet friendly control options?
• Question: Will the poison put down for mice harm my cat if the cat gets ahold of the mouse once it is dead?ANSWER The amount of bait eaten…and then metabolized by the body of the mouse, is small and it is not enough to threaten a cat that eats the mouse (which rarely happens).
• Question:I recently adopted a 5 month old kitten. Is the chemicals you use safe for them. Also what precautions should we do before the house is treated for pest?ANSWER: Treatment for any pests in the house will not threaten the safety of the kitten.
• Question: When you spray homes, do I have to get my pets out of the house?ANSWER: You don’t have to, but it can be helpful.

Question: I am having high levels of phosphate in my swimming pool and am not sure what is causing it. It could be my lawn spray company. But, wanted to know if my monthly Orkin pest control spray contains any phosphates. If so, I would have you spray a little further from my pool. Thank you.

ANSWER: There are no current household insecticides that are based on phosphates.

Answer: Probably what you have are field crickets (Gryllus pennsylvanicus). They are the shiny black species that often come in this time of year. They can be a problem throughout the house by their chirping (the males) and just being there! They have been developing all summer and have become adults in the last few weeks and are looking to mate, lay their eggs in the soil, and die after the first few frosts.

Field crickets migrate to the edges of houses and will enter through doors and windows. Remember that they can fly and will fly to light outdoors and will fly to lights at night.

Control of these insects outdoors is not easy. Perimeter treatment of the house may be effective in reducing their numbers for only a few days. You may kill a lot of crickets, but it seems there are more where those came from, and the site will soon be re-populated. In fall, as night temperatures decline, the house foundation and siding traps some of the daytime heat. The heat is detected by crickets, and they are naturally attracted to it in the evening. If you are going to spray the perimeter of the house; do it in the evening after the sun goes down. You can use any garden insecticide or ornamental plant insecticide, since the crickets are sensitive (not resistant) to almost any material.

Control of these insects indoors may be accomplished by using sticky traps, such as those sold for cockroach control; place them near doors and windows at ground level, and where you have heard them chirping. The gel baits (not the plastic stations) available for cockroach control may be effective; place small amounts of this bait where you have seen or heard the crickets. You can try rolling up some sections of newspaper and placing these in sites that crickets have been seen. They may use the newspaper as a harborage site (give them a few days) and then you can pick up the newspaper roll and take it outside or to the trash.

Related Questions: The Orkin Man used the information above to also answer the following questions submitted by Orkin.com users.

• Question: I”ve been having a problem with crickets for about 6 weeks now. They seem to be mainly in my bedroom which makes it impossible for me to sleep as I am a light sleeper. I have located and disposed of four so far, they are very small. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Would I have to sign a contract to have Orkin treat my home for this?
• Question: Can you spray the outside perimeter of a building for crickets at this time of year?

Read more about cricket control in our Pest Library.

Answer: Ticks are not really insects since the adults have eight legs. These blood sucking insects are known to spread disease.

When a tick is found on a pet or human, the tick most likely came in from the outside, perhaps attached to the host animal or person.

Treatment of ticks requires treatment on the outside of a structure. This is usually an insecticide treatment and the cost can range from just over a hundred dollars for urban areas to more for rural areas.

For more details, reach out to your local Orkin branch office listed here: www.orkin.com/locations/

ANSWER: No. They are not poisonous

Generally, they are harmless. People just consider them a nuisance, and dont want them around.

Silverfish do not carry diseases. They will not bite you, and they typically keep to themselves, and stay out of your way.

Related Information:

• Where do they come from?
• A bug with a small gray body
• Silverfish in the home

Get more information on silverfish control in our pest library.

Answer: Fleas can inhabit outside areas as well as interior of homes and businesses. When they infest interior areas, the infestation becomes urgent and must be controlled. Exterior infestations typically must be controlled to avoid spreading to pets and people, but this is usually less urgent.

Flea control requires confirmation that insect bites or visible insects are in fact fleas. After this, a thorough inspection of the areas to determine the extent of the infestation is conducted. Finally a treatment regimen including product application and possible follow up visits are required.

The cost to get rid of fleas will usually be just over a hundred dollars for minimal infestations to hundreds of dollars for some residential flea infestations. Larger infestations and commercial buildings will be more costly.

Contact your local Orkin branch for more information.

ANSWER: Treating houses during construction, when the foundation and the soil and/or gravel that forms the bed of future concrete slabs are exposed, is the best time to apply chemical protection against subterranean termites. The foundation block and the footing for the block or poured concrete wall are treated on the outside and inside. Sometimes the wood sill plate and joists for the flooring are treated (usually with a different insecticide).

This treatment is called ”pretreatment” by pest control operators and is done routinely by professional companies. It will need scheduling in advance. There may be a second treatment when the foundation has been back-filled and the final soil grading has been made. It is best for a professional company to do this treating, since it requires special application equipment and a large quantity of liquid termiticide.

Read more about termites and Orkin termite control

ANSWER: Squirrels are difficult to control, whether inside or outside the house. When squirrels get into attics they have to be live trapped, and this is not easy. Contact the The local branch office to help with this. Be careful when handling squirrels that have been captured, they bite. It might be best to let a professional pest control operator that has experience in small animal control do the trapping.

^{squirrel illustration}

More Information:

• Facts about squirrel control
• Squirrels on roof

ANSWER: You would not actually treat for them…that is use insecticides, you would have to figure out what they are infesting and then remove that material. This small, brown beetle is a commonly found around food storage areas. The grub stage can feed on a great variety of food materials, including spices, flour, noodles, bird seed, and tobacco.

^{image of cigarette beetle}

More Information:

• Facts about cigarette beetles
• Cigarette beetles in kitchen
• Stored product beetles

Does the spraying kill the termites? What can/should we do to prevent the termites from coming over to our home?

ANSWER Termites don”t create holes in the foundation and spraying will not solve the problem….so, I”m not sure what is going on at the neighbors. The best strategy for you is to get your house inspected by a professional pest control company, they can determine if there is an infestation and what to do about it.

ANSWER: Spiders are not easily controlled, whether inside or outside the house. They are often abundant around the outside of the house, especially around outdoor lights. Insects are attracted to outdoor lights at night, and spiders are there to hunt for insects. Spiders are predators of insects. This is their food and this is where they will be most abundant and active. A program to reduce the spiders around the outside of the house should begin by reducing the presence of insects around the outside of the house.

When they occur outside the house in large numbers, such as on the siding or on the ornamental shrubs, try to reduce the use of outdoor lights. The most common spiders around the outside of houses are wolf spiders. These are the large and often ”hairy” spiders that are hunters and do not make webs. Next in abundance would be the web-making or orb-weaver spiders. Orb-weaver spiders are often bright yellow and black.

Spraying outdoors to control spiders is usually not effective because those that you may kill will be replaced from areas surrounding the house. There are many more spiders than we can possibly kill with the application of an insecticide.

ANSWER: Yes, contact the local Orkin Pest Control branch for help: www.orkin.com/locations.

The spike or harpoon traps can be effective if you first collapse a section of an active runway with your hand, make it about half the original height. Set the spikes on the runway so that the tips just touch the collapsed runway. The trap will be sprung when the mole works to re-establish the runway. Move the trap in 3-4 days if there is no activity.

There is a bait called Talpirid that is available to professional pest control operators for the control of moles.

Read more about controlling moles.

However, I”m wondering if we could also have rat mites? If so do they tend to die and not be a problem with the rats not here or will we need to have the house treated to kill them? Also how do we tell if we have rat mites?

ANSWER: You may have bed bugs–and not rat mites. In some regions of the country the frequency of bed bugs has been increasing. While they are a nuisance and deliver some painful bites, bed bugs can be controlled with some careful cleaning and a little insecticide.

These small, reddish-brown insects hide during the day, and emerge at night to take a blood meal from people sleeping. They will also bite other mammals. The bed bug takes 3 to 15 minutes to feed, and then it may not feed again for 2-3 days. The bite produces a hard swelling, and is whitish in color; it usually is irritated and continues to bleed. It may turn into an itchy rash in a day or so. Once the frame is clean, do the same for the box spring: clean the cracks and crevices; then clean and maybe vacuum the seams of the mattress. With what is left in the aerosol you can spray the baseboards of the room. Start with the area near the bed, and try to get the spray under or behind the baseboard (where bedbugs may also be hiding). These insects can travel far to find a blood meal, so don”t fail to clean and treat the room. They can live long without food, so even old beds (not used in while) can have them.

Check to see that there are no new or recently abandoned bird nests close to the room (check the attic). There are ”cousins” to bed bugs that live in these nests (or are associated with bats) and can move from there to feeding on people.

^{picture of bed bug}

Here is more information on getting rid of bed bugs.

Related Questions:
The Orkin Man used the information above to also answer the following questions submitted by Orkin.com users.

• Question: What are rat mites? Do they bite? I have 10 bites on my body after sleeping on the couch.ANSWER: You may have bed bugs. In some regions of the country the frequency of bed bugs has been increasing. While they are a nuisance and deliver some painful bites, bed bugs can be controlled with some careful cleaning and a little insecticide. Check to see that there are no new or recently abandoned bird nests close to the room (check the attic). There are ”cousins” to bed bugs that live in these nests (or are associated with bats) and can move from there to feeding on people.
• Question:I have no signs of bedbugs but have heard of rat mites. What are rat mites?

ANSWER: Rats can carry mites, but they don”t leave the rat and they typically don”t bite humans.

ANSWER: The small bees nesting in the soil, and making the small holes in bare soil, are solitary bees. They are sometimes called sweat bees. They do not live in large colonies, but each female makes her own nest and rears a few larvae in galleries in the soil. These bees often occur together in large numbers, and give the appearance that there is one large colony. They are not usually aggressive, but they may sting when the nest site is approached.

To control these bees in a lawn or other outdoor recreation area you can use a garden insecticide and spray the surface of the soil. You may have to spray more than once. Any garden insecticide will be effective. It might be best to treat early in the morning or after sundown.

Read more about bee control.

ANSWER Scorpions are difficult to control and difficult to keep out of houses. You can start with reducing the vegetation that is around and close to the house. Scorpions can use this vegetation as a hiding place. They also hide under rocks and bury themselves in loose sand. Care must be taken when working outdoors, it is best to wear gloves!

There is little that you can spray around the outside or inside of the house to get control. They are most active during warm periods when temperatures are above 75 F. Most insecticides may not last long enough to have a long-term impact on scorpions. Indoors they move around so much that there would be few predictable places to spray.

There is no easy way to keep them out of the house. The first step is to seal the door thresholds. Indoors, you can use a black light to periodically inspect the house. Scorpions glow a yellowish green under black light. You can use an aerosol or a vacuum to pick up the scorpions once you locate them with the light.

There are some dangerous scorpions that occur in the southwestern U.S. The species that are the least dangerous produce a local swelling, or red spot on the skin. The species that is the most poisonous (Centuroides sculpturatus) DOES NOT produce a swelling or discoloration at the site of the sting, however the location may become quite painful. The lack of any swelling following a scorpion sting should be considered a warning that a potentially serious sting has occurred. See a physician immediately.

Read more about controlling scorpions.

ANSWER: These bees are not easily controlled, and whatever is done this year will probably have to be repeated next year. The best control is to place some liquid in or around the hole. Dust insecticide can be effective if placed at the nest opening so the bees will contact it when they move in and out. You can also place a mothball in the hole. In the fall plug the holes with caulking or a dowel.

The local Orkin Branch office can provide the information on costs.

Read more about controlling bees.

We knew the noise was coming from the bug because it stopped when we killed it. Have you any idea what kind of bug it is?

ANSWER: Well, it could have been one of several crickets; if the sound was high pitched it was likely one of the tree crickets. They are small but can produce a high pitched sound.

Read more about controlling crickets.

ANSWER: You can try control yourself….or call the local Branch office for a treatment schedule. Once the frame is clean, do the same for the box spring: clean the cracks and crevices, then clean and maybe vacuum the seams of the mattress. With what is left in the aerosol you can spray the baseboards of the room. Start with the area near the bed, and try to get the spray under or behind the baseboard (where bedbugs may also be hiding). These insects can travel far to find a blood meal, so don”t fail to clean and treat the room. They can live long without food, so even old beds (not used in while) can have them.

Read more about getting rid of bed bugs.

ANSWER: Probably….you may have to place a wire screen over the opening when the birds are removed. The local Branch office can help with this.

ANSWER: It is used for some severe infestations of drywood termites, even then there are other methods; it is not necessary to empty the house.

Read more about termites and termite control.

ANSWER: This may be the nest site; moving the wood will be fine, and will not spread the ants or the nest.

ANSWER: I don”t know of any organic insecticides that actually work on ants.

Read more about ant control and ants here.

The man at the local hardware store said that these bugs can be an indicator of water damage and rot to either the foundation or walls. Is this true?

I”d like to know if this is just a nuisance or an indication of a larger problem. Because I just bought the place and moved in, I do not know if there has been pervious water damage.

ANSWER:The local hardware store fellow is….mostly wrong.

They live outdoors in moist and decaying organic material, such as dead leaves, flower garden mulch, even the thatch layer in turfgrass. These small animals usually go unnoticed outside. Sometimes millipede populations increase rapidly, or their environment get too wet, and they start to migrate to get away from these conditions. Millipedes usually move to the sides of houses (where it may be warmer and drier); they sometimes come inside under door thresholds and around windows at ground level.

The best control is to remove as much of the moist mulch around doors as possible. This reduces their breeding sites and the favorable areas for them, and make certain the door thresholds are well sealed. These animals don”t infest houses, in fact they die soon after they enter because the environment is too dry for them.

Second Question:So, let me make sure that I understand correctly … There is no reason to be concerned about water damage to either the foundation or the walls, simply based on the presence of these millepedes. Is that correct? You state that the problem is most likely the presence of decaying, moist material outside near the house. All around the foundation it is clear of organic material … the only thing next to the foundation is rocks and concrete.

Could they be coming in through the floor vents? I seem to see them in the vicinity of the floor vents. If so, what should I do about that? Is there something I can spray along the baseboards (both inside and outside) to reduce their presence there?

SECOND ANSWER:They are not an indication of problems in the walls; not sure about the floor vents, maybe it is simply humid there. These are coming from the outside, probably not inside.

My bug has a more rounded body kind of egg shaped like a tick. The orange stripe is at the end of the bug and only about 1/64″ and goes from left to right. Also, there is a round long nose coming out the head with the antennae coming out the right and left side of the nose.

ANSWER: This is one of the root weevils. The large weevils (beetles with a long nose or snout), such as the strawberry root weevil, are sometimes found indoors. These beetles live outdoors and feed on plant leaves, but they can come indoors when populations become large and they start to move around. They can find openings around doors and windows to get in. They don”t infest houses, but can be a little annoying by their presence, and their slow walking up walls and across cabinets.

Control of these pests is best done with a vacuum cleaner. Aerosols can be used but there are not usually that many of them to warrant a spray program. Check the door thresholds and windows for entry ways. Outside they are not easily controlled with insecticide sprays because they move around a lot.

The most common species are strawberry root weevils (even though you don”t have strawberries), black vine weevil, and the Asiatic oak weevil (which actually does feed on a variety of trees). The most common hosts for these weevils include azalea, holly, privet, rhododendron, yew, and other ornamentals.

Also I have bad insulation that got wet and moldy that I am in the process of removing, could they be living in there or would they be more likely to be in my crawl space or outside in my aluminum siding? How much do you charge to come out after the free inspection?

ANSWER:The small black ants you have seen may be ”odorous house ants”.

^{Odorous house ant picture}

Here is some more useful information on these ants and how to control them:

• Odorous house ants in sugar
• Odorous ant information and identification 

ANSWER   Fire ants are difficult to control for several reasons: the colonies are often very large and extend under the ground a great distance; colonies often have multiple queens, so they can recover if a part of the colony and a queen or two have been killed; and they often occur in large numbers, so that when you have eliminated one colony another will likely more in to occupy the space.

There are some commercial control devices and materials for fire ants. They are usually in the form of something that probes the center of the nest and delivers a liquid, granular or dust insecticide into the site. These are effective because they deliver the material close to the center of the nest and there is little or no exposure to chemicals at the surface. Of course, you have to locate and get on top of the nest site to do this!

There are some granular insecticides that can be applied to the yard and give yearlong control. These may be available at the local garden center or from a professional pest control service.

Indoors it is best to use baits to control them. Liquid baits are the best, but granular and other formulations may also work. Baiting takes time and it may be best to use more than one kind or brand-ants frequently switch their feeding habits, and you should be ready with another type bait.

^{red fire ant}

Related Questions: The Orkin Man used the information above to also answer the following questions submitted by Orkin.com users.

Question: I have ants. I called about what I can do and they told me that I could get an initial visit done, and then an additional 3 visits to control them. Do I need all 4 visits?

ANSWER: Ant control is usually not done with one application, it may take three or more, depending on the infestation.

ANSWER Earwigs in and around the house are not easy to control for several reasons: there are a lot of them, so whatever you kill (outdoors) will likely be replaced by others; you have to actually contact them with the insecticide spray (liquid or aerosol will work) to get results, you can not expect to get control by spraying surfaces that may crawl on.

While they look dangerous, and the large pincers on the males (females have small ones) look threatening, they are not aggressive. In spite of their common name, they do not enter ears at night. They are predators of other insects, but will also eat plant material.

These insects have some protective oils on the outside of their body and the pads of their feet are constructed so that they are protected from the insecticide residues they may walk on. You have to contact them with the spray to kill them! The best time for control is in the evening when they are active.

A garden hose applicator and any common (garden or ornamental use) insecticide can be used, you may have to spray often, and target the places that you have seen them.

ANSWER Probably what you have is one of the common species of stink bugs. They can be pests in the fall when they enter houses. They are nuisances during the winter and spring before they leave to return to the outdoors. There are several species that have become pests in the last few years, possibly because their numbers have increased in some regions of the country.

Adult stink bugs spend the winter in protected places. They often find shelter around the outside and inside houses. Boxelder bugs and ladybugs also do this.

They don”t sting or bite, and they don”t reproduce in the house. They are just a nuisance and they stink. The ”stink” they make is from a small gland on the abdomen. It is for defense purposes!

These insects can be removed from indoors with a vacuum cleaner. In the fall you can try spraying the perimeter of the house with a garden insecticide . This will help to discourage them from moving to the house and then inside. Follow the insecticide label directions for perimeter applications.

Make sure exterior doors close tightly. Replace any missing weather-stripping. Repair any damaged screens on attic and crawl space vents.

image of stink bug

Answer:

The game has a total of 9 levels each that present a unique challenge. Levels 1, 2, 4, 6 and 8 introduce a different pest; and levels 3, 5, 7, and 9 are multi bug levels.  It is during the multi bug levels that you will be able to get a “bonus disc.” Each bonus disc smushed earns 50 points, which is more than you are able to obtain by just killing the common pests.

The bonus disc is optional, so be sure to look for it on the upper right corner of your screen. This unique feature can be customized.  You can upload photos of people you know, and perhaps, use them as motivation in the multi bug levels.

Another way to increase your score is speed.  Players are rewarded 100 points for each second left on the clock when a level is passed.

With a bit of practice you can become a mighty bug battler!

ANSWER Actually, there are no white cockroaches.

What you found was a cockroach that had just shed its skin (molted) in the process of growing larger or advancing to the adult stage. In the process of shedding the old shin, the new skin appears white. It takes about 6 hrs for the new skin to ”tan” (a chemical process) and become hard and brown; then the cockroach will look like all the others in the population.

ANSWER Yes, it can work.

Mouse baits may be effective, but often the mouse dies behind the wall and there is a lingering odor for several weeks.

Read more information on getting rid of mice.

ANSWER These arthropods are active at night, they are hunters, but they do not move that fast….and it is not going to chase after you.

Read more about killing scorpions.

^{Scorpions crawling on gravel}

ANSWER There is no set distance….simply use the wood on a regular basis, keep it off the ground, and don”t let it sit for several years without some rotation.

ANSWER I”m not sure about the mounds of soil along the edge of the lawn–the possibilities are earthworms, sometimes grubs (Green June Beetle grubs) will make these mounds, and skunks looking for grubs can make them….those caterpillars are not involved.

ANSWER Small lizards are common pests in houses and buildings that are surrounded by vegetation or are close to areas of dense (sometimes shaded) plants. They are pests simply by their presence indoors. They do not live in or infest houses, but come in from surrounding vegetation to find insects (food).

Usually they are following the insects that are attracted to outdoor lights, which often attract moths and many other insects. Of course, they don”t bite people or animals, and would eventually move out of the house, except for those that get lost indoors.

The best control strategy is to keep them out by keeping doors and windows closed or screened. Then you can use sticky traps in the areas where you have seen them indoors. Reducing the vegetation around the house and limiting outdoor lights at night may also be helpful.

I”ve only seen them on the main floor at night. My neighbors in the same structure all have the same problem, but they have never looked into the cause of the problem. Is this something that I will just have to live with?

The man at the local hardware store said that these bugs can be an indicator of water damage and rot to either the foundation or walls. Is this true? I”d like to know if this is just a nuisance or an indication of a larger problem. Because I just bought the place and moved in, I do not know if there has been pervious water damage. The townhouse is 15 years old in Eagan, MN.

ANSWER The local hardware store fellow is….mostly wrong.

Millipedes live outdoors in organic material that is mostly moist and decaying: dead leaves,  garden mulch, sometimes turf grass.

Their numbers can increase quickly if their environment gets too wet.  Then they may  move somewhere drier or warmer, such as  the sides of houses.  They can get inside homes by going under door thresholds or around windows.

Be sure to remove any moist mulch near doors.  Be sure that doors are sealed tight. The good news is that they usually die after they enter your house because the it is too dry for them.

ANSWER

Pesticides designed for household insects are low concentration, usually less than 1%. The insecticides are formulated to be effective against spiders and small insects but are of no danger to humans or pets.

Spiders are not easily controlled inside the house. There are certain times of the year when these animals are more active and abundant than other times, and these times are usually the spring and fall. They are most often seen at these times because the males are moving around in search of females, or the webs become abundant near lights. Spiders are, also, predators of insects. The most effective control method is to limit their primary food supply.

ANSWER Stink bugs can be pests in the fall when they enter houses, and during the winter and spring before they leave to return to the outdoors. There are several species that have become household pests in the last few years, probably because their numbers have increased in some regions of the country. These insects can be removed from indoors with a vacuum cleaner; in the fall you can try spraying the perimeter of the house (the vegetation and mulch) with a garden insecticide to discourage them from moving to the house and then inside. They don”t sting or bite, and they don”t infest the house.

Related Information:
Diamond shaped bug
Stink Bug Control

Related Questions: The Orkin Man used the information above to also answer the following questions submitted by Orkin.com users.

Question: HI, I first noticed the stinkbug last fall when they were swarming in my yard. I had the door open and about 50 flew in. I vacuumed like crazy, but I continued to see a few over the winter. Now, I am vacuuming up 10-20 everyday. I see them outside on my soffits. We have lived here 20 years and it is the first time I have encountered this is problem. I read online that sprays do not deter them after about two weeks. Can you give me more information? Thanks

Question: Does ORKIN treat for “stink bugs” (mid sized shield shaped beetle bugs that give off a stink when scared or squashed)?

ANSWER:

The most effective control programs limit the spiders’ food supply. Since most spiders prey on insects, outdoor infestations can be addressed by simply reducing the use of exterior lighting. Spraying outdoors to control indoor spiders is not effective. If for no other reason than most indoor spiders don”t come from outdoor habitats. There are many species of spiders that only live indoors.

The local Branch office can provide the most current information on treatment costs. You can find the local Branch by going to the Orkin website, look under Locations, then Find Your Local Branch (right-hand column).

It may seem easy to provide a treatment schedule, a list of the pesticides to be used, and an estimate on the time or number of treatments it will take to solve a specific pest problem. However, there are many factors that make this very difficult. Pests such as spiders can have varying levels of resistance to modern insecticides, or there are local or state restrictions on what insecticides can be used, or there may be limits to the availability of some insecticides.

It is difficult to determine the size or extent of an infestation without an inspection.

ANSWER:  It is one of the large species of slugs, and gets the name from the dark spots it has on the body.

ANSWER Probably what you have are springtails. This is a good name for them, since they hop by using their tail. They are often found in moist locations outside houses, and sometimes inside (kitchens, bathrooms, ground-level rooms).

Springtails do not bite people or pets, but they can be a nuisance when they occur in large numbers. These are the same insects that can appear in large numbers in the winter on snow, then they are called snow fleas.

More information on springtails

ANSWER: Probably what you have are psocids (soo – cids) or booklice (an unfortunate name, since they are neither lice nor always associated with books).

These very small, pale yellow to brown insects live in humid areas such as bathrooms and kitchens, but they can occur in other locations in the house (especially in humid weather). Most of the time they are wingless, but sometimes you can encounter winged forms. They feed on microscopic mold and fungi, and some are associated with stored food materials which may also have some mold. There are a few psocids that are associated with cereals and are not usually found in humid areas. They may be found in quite dry kitchen cabinets.

The best control in the kitchen and kitchen cabinets is to remove everything from the cabinets, vacuum them very well (no soap and water), then use a hair dryer to dry out the site, then replace the stuff. Soap and water usually makes a paste and the paste hardens in cracks and crevices and prevents further cleaning, but leaving a residue that can be food for insects.

In the bathroom you can turn up the heat and close the door and leave it for a day to dry the place out and you will kill the psocids.

For the ones in other places in the house, or when you find them on pieces of furniture, the best control is to dry out whatever or wherever these insects have been found. This may mean turning up the heat, taking items outside to dry in the sun, whatever it takes to lower the humidity in the environment they are in.

Related Questions: The Orkin Man used the information above to also answer the following questions submitted by Orkin.com users.

• Question: The last two days I have noticed microscopic insects in my bath tub. I have no idea where they are coming from and they are not in the outside areas. Looking at them with a lens, they look like clear ants, but I”m unsure. I don”t know if they are coming from my walls because I am re-grouting the tub area. Can you help?
• Question: I have found hundreds of small salt grain size bugs in my house all over, what are they?
• Question: I have recently discovered that there are very small white colored bugs in my bedroom. They are as small as a dot. I am wondering if you know what they are and how to get rid of them in a safe way without disrupting furniture, electronic equipment.
• Question: My apartment complex provides regular pest control services about every 2-3 weeks. Yet I constantly find these bugs on my walls and counters (mostly in the bedroom, bathroom and kitchen). They do not fly, they are about a half inch long with antennae, and when I kill them with a tissue they become almost translucent although when they are all on the wall or whatever they appear to be brown. They seem to show up in areas that have been dark for awhile (ie inside cabinets, closets, dark bedroom or bathroom) but no matter how often I have pest control (and it is Orkin) they never seem to go away yet I never have any other bug issues. I live in Northern Florida.
• Question: I periodically see these little brown bugs ( I think they have six legs) in different areas of my home, bathroom sink, shower, living room floor, kitchen sink, they seem to go near food I saw the first one around a year ago. I don”t see them often although i have seen 2 in the last 3 days do you have any ideas what they could be?
• Question: We have bugs in out apartment since a hurricane. I do not know if they are ants or termites. The are very small and move VERY fast!! They are dark in color in the front and lighter in the back. They seem to be around water, sweets, and our bed. Can you please help us figure out what these are. We have used ant spray top kill them but they but they keep coming around. We have reptiles in the apartment and a cat so we do not want to fog the apartment.
• Question: We have tiny bugs that look like brown dots near the windows and in the tubs and sinks. They invade in the spring time and this year they are worse than ever. What are they and can we keep them from coming back?
• Question: Can you identify this insect? It is tiny, tiny. It is only noticed when there are a number of them on the counter. Individually, they are specks. When found on the counter or in the kitchen sink they are dead. We have closed all holes under the sink, but the insects still appear.
• Question: Hi! There are hundreds of beige specs by my kitchen sink. I clean them and they reappear.

ANSWER

Voles (primarily the woodland vole) are small rodents that are similar to mice.  However, they are quite different from mice and moles (which also tunnel underground).  Voles are grayish-brown and about 5-6 inches long.  Unlike the house mouse, voles have a blunt nose, short furry ears, and small eyes.

Voles live outdoors in shallow burrows in the soil; they feed on the roots and tubers of trees and plants, and can cause extensive damage to plantings and orchards.  They are sometimes found in sheds and in basements, but do not naturally infest houses.  Vole populations peak in natural cycles every few years, and during this time they can be very abundant.  They prefer grassy areas or areas with heavy mulch and ground cover.  They travel in above ground runways and underground burrows.

Controlling these animals is not easy, but the best a homeowner can do is set some snap traps at the entrance of the active burrows.  You may have to set a number of traps to determine what burrow is being used at that time.  In the spring and fall they are more active and trapping at this time may be more successful.  Indoors they may not be attracted to typical snap traps and glue boards may be the most effective control.

Related Questions:
The Orkin Man used the information above to also answer the following questions submitted by Orkin.com users.

Question:  I have a problem with Voles…They have done considerable damage this winter.  Is there anything you can do to rid me of this problem?

ANSWER You can avoid taking cockroaches with you when you move by doing some simple things to control them now, and when you get to where you are going.

The use of the plastic bait stations or the gel bait can be effective. A week or so before you move, place a station or a small amount of the gel in each box you pack from the kitchen or bathroom, close the box and seal it. You can use mothballs or moth crystals in the boxes instead of the gel baits or plastic stations.

Before you move into the new place, put out some of the plastic stations or gel baits in the kitchen and bathroom. In this way, the first meal a cockroach may get when it gets to the new place (if they traveled with you) will be their last.

Related Questions:
The Orkin Man used the information above to also answer the following questions submitted by Orkin.com users.

Question: We moved into this duplex and no one lives in the other side and I know for a fact that we didn”t have these at the place before this place but  have bought boric acid for cockroaches but it seems like every since I put this down I am seeing more and more what can I do?

Question: I was wondering if cockroaches are a problem in Wheaton, IL.
I am moving to that apartment building. It”s a first floor apartment. Are cockroaches more likely to get in on the first floor?

ANSWER  Moles are small rodents that can damage turfgrass.  Those tunnels just under the surface of the lawn are made by male moles establishing a territory and looking for females.  The females spend their time deeper in the soil in small cavities.  Both males and females eat earthworms, insects and some other soil arthropods.

Moles dig two types of tunnels: deep tunnels and surface tunnels.  The deep tunnels (maybe 24 inches down) are used as runways and for nesting; they may be marked as “mole hills” of pushed out dirt.  Surface tunnels are runways which can be followed as raised ridges on the ground.  Only a few of the surface tunnels will be active.

Moles in the lawn or garden are difficult to control, and there are a great variety of remedies. The home or hardware store will probably have several mole control products available. The most effective mechanical method I am aware of is the spring-loaded spikes that are placed over the surface tunnels.  Fall is a good time for control, especially after a rain when mole activity is high.

The shallow, surface tunnels the easy to find and the ones to use for the spike traps.  Look for a relatively straight ridge running along the soil surface.  Poke your finger into these runways in a few places; if the moles repair the holes in a few days, then the runways are active.

The spike or harpoon traps can be effective if you first collapse a section of an active runway with your hand, make it about half the original height.  Set the spikes on the runway so that the tips just touch the collapsed runway.  The trap will be sprung when the mole works to re-establish the runway.  Move the trap in 3-4 days if there is no activity.

Related Questions:
The Orkin Man used the information above to also answer the following questions submitted by Orkin.com users.

Question:  I have moles or gophers in my back yard. They have made tunnels and hill all over my yard last night. How can I get rid of then, please help my yard is being destroyed.

ANSWER First, to you then your mother. It is possible that you brought them back, but not likely. They would hitch a ride in luggage and material that were next to the bed or in the room that was infested. Chances are that this didn”t happen.

If you want to be cautious, place some moth crystals in the luggage you used. Clean the frame of the bed and then do the same for the box spring: clean the cracks and crevices, then clean and maybe vacuum the seams of the mattress. With what is left in the aerosol you can spray the baseboards of the room. Start with the area near the bed, and try to get the spray under or behind the baseboard (where bedbugs may also be hiding). These insects can travel far to find a blood meal, so don”t fail to clean and treat the room. They can live long without food, so even old beds (not used in while) can have them.

Your mother should consider getting rid of these pests before it gets worse.

Dear Mr. Orkin Man

Today I visited a hotel in Dubai noticed that they have problem flies. The flies are white in color and they seem to be “oozing” from the drain pipes in almost all the bathrooms. Could you please tell me what species of the flies and what methods of control are used?

Your early response will be appreciated greatly.

ANSWER There are several species of flies that can breed in drains in bathrooms. These include moth flies (sometimes called drain flies), phorid flies, house flies, and some other species of small flies. None of these flies are white…so I don”t recognize what you have coming out of the drains…unless you are referring to the maggots–these would be white. The best solution to this problem is to first, physically clean the drains–remove as much of the organic material as possible; then use a biological drain cleaner on a regular basis (every two weeks).

ANSWER

None that I know of.

ANSWER This is most likely an indication of a termite infestation, you should get the house inspected by a professional pest control company a soon as possible.

ANSWER You may have an infestation of Pharaoh ants.

Pharaoh ants are a common household pest and difficult to control. They infest the entire house, they seem to feed at all times of the day and night, and standard spray treatments are not effective or even advisable.

The best control strategy is to use baits and be patient. The baits take time and there are likely many small colonies throughout the house. The baits will have to be located in many places and the ants will have to be attracted to the baits. The use of liquid baits is best, and you may want to try several different brands.

Baits are the best control strategy for these ants. In fact if you spray chemicals for them you may only make the situation worse. Spraying liquid insecticides usually fragments the colonies and makes more of them! There are some commercial ant baits available for these and other indoor ants.

pharaoh ant image

ANSWER

These are probably carpenter ants.  Most are large black ants, though some be red or a combination of red and black. Most will swarm in the spring. They feed on other insects and honeydew from aphids on plants.

^{carpenter ants in the ground}

Carpenter ants like to nest in wood that has been  damaged from moisture, though they do not eat the wood. If there is a nest in the house, it is because there is wood damaged from moisture somewhere in the home:

• in the bathroom from a tub or shower that is not draining correctly or overflows often
• a porch that holds moisture
• a leaky roof leak
• a wet door frame (rain)
• a spout or gutter that does not work

Carpenter ants tend to be active inside in the spring.  Look for them in the kitchen and  other areas of the home in February and March. There may be a nest in the house. Later in the spring, they may go outdoors, however this does not mean that they have been controlled. Sometimes the nest is outdoors and they are just foraging for food indoors.

Try to locate the source of the nest. Inspect the house for moisture damaged wood. Fix the moisture problem and in the meantime the nest can be removed or sprayed.

If you cannot find a nest, use liquid baits, though most baits will work if you place them near the foraging ants.This process takes time, but it will get to the queen in the colony. This is the best method to use, killing the worker ants with sprays is not really effective.

carpenter ant close up

Many people ask if bed bugs can jump, but they can’t. They are actually hitchhikers that hide in our belongings and then travel with us from place to place. Click here for a printable bed bug  guide with easy steps to help you avoid bringing bed bugs back home as a vacation souvenir.

For more facts and tips about bed bug detection, bed bug symptoms and how to get rid of bed bugs, visit our Learning Center.

While there may be no such thing as a bug-free summer, there are simple steps homeowners can take themselves — in addition to partnering with a professional — to reduce pest populations and summer pest threats.

Check out this video with outdoor pest control tips, specifically for wasps and mosquitoes, from Orkin entomologist Shane Hill.

Next Video >>

Does Spring Cleaning Help Get Rid of Bugs?

Common spring cleaning chores like dusting, vacuuming and cleaning out closets can help reduce pests in and around your home. Dirt and dust can provide food for cockroaches (insects that eat just about anything). Plus, extra clutter can make it more difficult to find signs of pest activity.

To help get your home ready for spring, check out this video with pest control tips from Pat Wicker, Orkin assistant region service manager.

Few homeowners think about termites when it’s unusually cool, but they should. Subterranean termites are active year-round. Swarmers begin to emerge after the last winter freeze, when the temperatures rise to the low to mid-70s. Besides swarms, one of the other most common warning signs for termites is mud tubes, which are tunnels made out of soil that subterranean termites use to travel to wood sources around homes.

If you live in Florida, Georgia, or other parts of the Southeast, you should be on the lookout for signs of termites now. Homeowners in the Northeast, Midwest and Northwest also may begin to see swarms in the weeks ahead if spring temperatures rise to the 70s; however, there are steps you can take to help prevent and control infestations — before or after swarming takes place.

For more information on termites’ spring activity, click here.

ANSWER

Yellowjackets are common in many different environments, from the home yard to wooded sites. These insects are predators of flies and caterpillars during the spring and summer. In the fall they often prefer sweets and can be a pest outdoors around soft drinks. They are not easily controlled, especially after they have established a large nest under the siding of the house. These nests may contain hundreds of workers and they have the ability (and an attitude!) to sting many times. Control should proceed with caution.

First, you will have to locate the opening to the nest; you can do this by carefully observing (not too close) the coming and going of wasps in the area.  Try to pinpoint the opening; you will have to be able to find it later, in the dark.

^{Yellow Jacket}

Get one of the aerosol sprays that are designed for wasp nest control. These aerosols deliver a concentrated stream of liquid that can penetrate the nest and immobilize the wasps quickly (get two of them!). Work at night (well after dark), wear protective clothing (especially on your head); don”t work alone. Use a red light to guide you (insects don”t see red). If you can direct the aerosol liquid to the nest opening or even close, that may immobilize the wasps inside for a while. Give it a good dose of the aerosol liquid; it evaporates quickly and you want to soak the area around the nest.

The next day there may be wasps flying around the nest site, give them a day or so to wander off.

Please, avoid the temptation to use of gasoline or some other creative material you think would work better than the commercial aerosols and liquid insecticide.  These material are dangerous, do not work as well as you might think, and things can happen that are not always good.

Once the wasps have been killed you will have to remove the nest if it is in the wall or attic of a house. Leaving the nest will only attract other insects, such as carpet beetles and moths. Seal up the opening so next year”s wasps cannot use the same nest site.

What exactly are these bugs? How do I get rid of them? They are starting to gross me out.

ANSWER  Maybe what you have are cigarette beetles. They are common household pests. This small, (about 1/8 inch long) brown beetle is a commonly found around food storage areas. The grub stage can feed on a great variety of food materials, including spices, flour, noodles, bird seed, and tobacco.

Control of this stored food pest takes a little time. The first step is to locate the source of the infestation, the infested food, and discard it. This may mean taking everything from the cabinets and drawers. Finding the infested material is the key to getting them eliminated.

Once the cabinets are empty, vacuum them very well . This will remove any hidden insects and all debris. Replace everything, and vacuum again in about a week. Make sure all the cracks and crevices are clean of food scraps and flour. Inspect material at the grocery store to be certain it is not infested. Avoid buying packages that are broken or opened. Store foods in sealed containers.

ANSWER  General ant control begins with locating and treating the nest site or using baits. Some ants make trails from their nest site to a food supply. You may be able to follow the worker ants from the food back to the nest;. When you have found the nest, then apply some liquid insecticide directly to it. Some ant species do not make strong trails, so locating the nest can be difficult.

In general, baits are the best method of ant control, but this method takes time and patience. There are some dry or granular baits available, but the most effective formulations are liquids.

Place the baits where you have seen the most ant activity.  Ant feeding behavior is very variable. It often depends on the time of year, whether they are rearing young in the colony, and in the availability of other food sources. You may need to try several different kinds of ant bait, and switch them periodically. Control will take time.

Spraying a liquid insecticide around the perimeter of the house or structure can be used for control. It may help by placing an insecticide on the surfaces that the ants will walk on as they enter the house. Because of the sun and humidity most insecticides must be re-applied periodically.  Granular insecticides can be effective for ground-nesting ants. They are applied to the ground around the perimeter of the house.

Related Questions:
The Orkin Man used the information above to also answer the following questions submitted by Orkin.com users.

Question: We periodically have tiny ants. Specifically what chemicals would be used in and around our home?

Question: I have very tiny ants in the kitchen, about the size of a bread crumb or a poppy seed.  I also find a lot of dead ones at one area in my basement, on the top of a tool cabinet.  I have a cat and wondered how Orkin would handle this and if I would have to leave my home with the cat if treatment was required.  Thank you.

Question: I have ants in my kitchen around the sink area.  What type of treatment would you use to get rid of them and would it require me to have to pack up all my dishes that are in close proximity to my sink?

Question: My house seems to be infested with ants – black, small in thousands! I have placed several ant traps and have used sprays, nothing seems to be working.

Question: How do I get rid of ants in my kitchen? I keep my sink and counters cleaned. Where are they coming from?

ANSWER  Neither treatment will affect the furniture.

Household flea control begins with treating the animal, then treating the house. Both steps have to be done and they have to be done together. If the pet spends time outdoors, the yard may need to be treated as well.  Read more about treating fleas.

ANSWER   Probably what you have is an orb-weaving spider.  This is a large family of spiders, and several hundred species are found in the U.S.  Almost all  of these spiders spin a large and sometimes complicated web of concentric rings. They often locate the webs on the sides of houses or on trees and shrubs, especially near outdoor lights.

Orb-weaving spiders are often brightly colored and attract attention as they sit in or near their web.  They are waiting for prey to become stuck and shake the strands.

Some of the most dramatic of the orb-weavers are the spiders in the genus Argiope.  These spiders are striped black and orange, or black and white.  They construct large webs that have a zig-zag pattern of silk in the center of the web. They are usually found hanging head down in the center of the web.

While orb-weaving spiders are large and look threatening, they are not aggressive to people.  Certainly, you can be bitten if you try to handle one of these spiders, but they will usually try to get away from people. When their web is damaged they will usually leave and re-build it somewhere else.

Limiting the use of outdoor lights at night can help reduce the number flying insects that gather there. These insects are the food for these and other spiders around the outside of the house.  Changing porch lights to the yellow “bug light” bulbs may help. It is sometimes necessary to place curtains or shades on windows to reduce the amount of light that shines out to attract flying insects.

ANSWER

The best way to get rid of fleas is an integrated approach which first treats any pets in your household and then your house itself.

Household flea control begins with treating the animal, then treating the house. Both steps have to be done and they have to be done together. At least the pet should be the first treated.

PET.  There are some very effective on-animal flea control products. Some are available from the veterinarian and some are over-the-counter products. The pet or pets must be treated first before you can hope to rid the house (carpeting) of fleas. The pet”s bedding should be washed or replaced when the pet is treated.

HOUSE.  Vacuuming the carpet can help to remove the eggs that drop there from the fleas on the pet. Vacuuming will remove a few larvae and the debris that the larvae eat. Vacuuming will cause the adult fleas to come out of their cocoons while the carpet treatment is fresh and effective.

Continue to vacuum for several days after the carpet has been treated. It is normal to see fleas for a couple of weeks after the treatment.

The local Orkin branch will explain any other preparation steps. They can also answer any questions when you call them to schedule the service.

Closeup photo of a flea:

Read more:More information on flea control from our pest library

Related Questions:
The Orkin Man used the information above to also answer the following questions submitted by Orkin.com users.

• Question: What pesticides do you use to treat a home for flea infestation.  How exactly do you do it – what methods?  What are the dangers of the chemicals to small children.  I assume you would only come once.  How much would that cost?
• Question: We have had problems with fleas for sometime now. We live in a home that was built in the 1800”s. The house has wood floors that from what I have read harbors fleas. What would it take to treat out home? Would it require treating the yard as well? What”s the average price to treat this situation and how often would treatments have to be applied?
• Question: How do you eliminate flees in our home with it being safe for my 2 infant children?
• Question: Hello!
  Recently I noticed a flea in our living room.  I only seen it for a second, but Im positive it was a flea. Since then my two year old has been having bites on him (no one else in the family however has had any bites). I have been running the vacuum frequently.  Is there anything I should be doing to prevent them from getting worse?  Can I use the flea powder you put on animals and sprinkle it on the carpet?  Do you have any home remedies that might work? Am I suppose to throw away the vacuum bag after every use? The animals each have a new flea collar on.  I didn”t think you could get fleas in the winter.  We live in New York and have snow now. Any suggestions on how I can try to get rid of them would be greatly appreciated.  Thank you.
• Question: My boyfriend and I are looking at a townhome in Davison, MI. The “model” that was shown to us had fleas in it. Is this a treatable thing or would you suggest NOT moving there?

  ANSWER: It is treatable, but probably something you want done before you get there. The best solution would be to remove and replace all the carpets, second choice is to have all (all!) the carpets shampooed–this will kill the flea larvae that are in the carpet.

• Question: I unfortunately moved into an apartment that was infested with fleas. I don”t have any animals and Orkin has treated the place twice. I”ve been doing a lot of vacuuming and I haven”t seen a flea for a week. Does that mean that they”re totally gone now? When can I be confident that they are totally gone? Is it possible that there are still eggs in the apartment that could hatch weeks and months later, or can I assume that all the eggs have hatched by now?

  ANSWER: There are no eggs that will hatch months later; if you”re still worried you can shampoo the carpets…this kills any larvae that are in the carpet.

ANSWER  Earwigs in and around the house look dangerous, but they are not aggressive. In spite of their common name, they do not enter ears at night. They are predators of other insects, but will also eat plant material.

Start by inspecting the outside of the house. Remove as many earwig hiding places as possible. Stack firewood on a rack and move it away from the house. Rake mulch and dead leaves away from the foundation — try to make a 12″ clear zone. It is sometimes necessary to have trees trimmed to allow more sunshine on the yard.

Make sure exterior doors close tightly and replace any missing weather-stripping. An insecticide barrier applied to the outside foundation will help keep them away. The barrier will have to be re-applied from time to time because of the sun and rain.

Indoors, eliminate any excess moisture and dampness in the home. An aerosol or dust insecticide can be effective. Apply it into the cracks and crevices where these pesky insects would hide during the day. Sticky traps (the small roach and mouse traps) might help get control quicker.

ANSWER  They are not that common. There are several species of recluse spiders in the United States. They are found in almost every part of the country. However, other types of spiders can deliver a similar bite, so the bite does not confirm the spider as a recluse.

Follow these simple guidelines for identifying a spider as a recluse.  They are nearly uniformly pale brown to light brown spiders. Their legs are not striped and not especially ”hairy”.

The violin shape on the ”head region” is distinct. Some people call these “fiddleback spiders” because of this marking. The brown recluse when full grown, and legs extended is about the size of a 25¢ coin. The body is about ½” long.

^{Brown Recluse Spider}

Recluse spiders, as their name suggests, hide during the day. They hide in pl;aces like closets, garages, crawl spaces, and storage sheds. Of course, when in doubt it is always safe to be cautious. They are not aggressive animals, and usually only bite when cornered or brushed against.

If someone is bitten, watch them closely for a reaction. If the victim is taken for medical attention, try to take the spider for identification.

Related Information:

• Brown Recluse Prevalence
• Difference between a cellar spider and a brown recluse spider
• Treat Brown Recluse Spiders
• General Spider Control and Facts

ANSWER

That depends on the level of infestation….these pests can move from apartment to apartment. The small German roaches can travel inside the walls and move from one unit to another.  It is sometimes necessary to treat the voids inside of the walls to block their movements. Dust insecticide is best for wall void treatments.

ANSWER  If it has been vacant for a while, the cockroach infestation may be gone, but to be certain it might help to place baits in the house before you move in.

Since the large roaches live outdoors, homeowners can prevent them from invading. Check exterior doors. Make sure they close tightly and replace missing weather-stripping. Rake mulch and dead leaves away from the foundation. Store firewood on a rack and move it away from the house. Keep lids on garbage cans and move recycle bins away from the house.

The small German roaches often “hitch” rides into homes. People bring them in without realizing they are doing it. These little roaches sneak into backpacks, briefcases, grocery bags, and items at yard sales. Check bags and boxes carefully before you bring them inside.

The German cockroaches are best controlled using either stations or gel formulations. Larger cockroaches, like the Oriental and American, are only really affected by gels. Both the stations and gels are types of cockroach baits. These are, currently, the most effective control methods (sometimes an integrated approach including liquid sprays is needed). The stations are plastic units for use right out of the packaging. The gels are sold in plastic syringes and ready for immediate use, as well. Hardware stores and larger home stores will typically carry them. These are much more effective than aerosol / fogger treatments. Even being a better method, the process takes time to work.

Place the bait where you’ve seen cockroaches active within the house. Plastic stations are designed to go in corners of recessed areas and the open around appliances and furniture. They are sturdy and resilient. The bait stations can remain effective against cockroaches for up to three months.

Gel roach bait formulations are best utilized in small openings like crevices and cracks. The gels are subject to be eaten quickly because of the small amounts applied. Monitor the areas often and replace bait that’s been consumed. Both young and adult will eat the gel formulations. They aren’t as durable as the stations but will remain effective for several weeks.

ANSWER The term “powderpost beetle” may refer to several different kinds of wood-infesting beetles. The term is used for: 1) beetle species that only infest hardwoods (such as flooring, trim, or even ornamental pieces), or 2) for beetles that infest softwoods (such as wall framing and support joists).

The damage produced by these beetles may be small round holes (about the size of pencil lead). The first sign of an infestation is usually a small amount of powder, called frass. The frass appears in or around a piece of wood that has been attacked by the beetle larvae.

The appearance of the frass is a clue to the type of beetle that has been active inside the wood. If the powder is a little gritty when rubbed between your fingers, then it is a sign of anobiid beetle damage. If the frass is soft and not gritty, then it is a sign of lyctid beetle activity.

LYCTID POWDERPOST BEETLES (Family: Lyctidae). The damage from these small (1/8 inch) beetles may be found in various places in the house, such as kitchen cabinets, baseboard trim, hardwood flooring , and in ornamental pieces of wood such as picture frames. They infest only hardwoods, and generally infest only new wood, usually less than 5 years old. They can re-infest the wood. The life cycle takes 1-2 years.

ANOBIID POWDERPOST BEETLES (Family: Anobiidae). The damage from these small (1/8 inch) beetles may be found in floor joists in crawl spaces of houses, and sometimes in attic joists, and wall studs. They infest primarily softwood, but will also attack hardwoods. Their life cycle is 1-2 years and they will continually re-infest structural wood, sometimes causing structural damage.

CONTROL of these beetles begins with first determining that there is an active infestation. The holes and the powder that falls from the holes may exist for many years, but is NOT an indication that there are beetles alive in the wood at this time. If the infestation is active, there will be recent holes or the sound of feeding will be heard.

The treatment will depend on the severity of the infestation. The simplest treatment is to remove and replace the infested wood. Other options include application of liquid insecticide to the surface of the infested wood or injection of liquid  into the feeding galleries.

Pieces of furniture can be fumigated in a special vault or chamber. Tenting and fumigation of the entire structure is usually reserved for severe infestations. The insecticides used for control will work by killing the larval stage or the adult stage when it emerges from the wood.

It might be a good idea to call the local Orkin branch office.  They will arrange to have an inspector meet you at the house. The inspector can identify the type of beetle that has been active. The inspector can also determine if the infestation is still active and discuss the most effective and economical treatment options.

Related Questions:
The Orkin Man used the information above to also answer the following questions submitted by Orkin.com users.

Question: Is there information on your site about powder post beetles or other wood drilling beetles?

Question: What are powderbore beetles?  Are they health hazards?  Do they infest food, if so how do you know? What is the course and cost of treatment?

Question: I have a bookshelf constructed of antique wood. I am finding small pinholes with sawdust. Could you tell me what it could be?

Answer  What you have is probably one of the two common species of fruit flies. They are the small brown flies that may be hovering in the kitchen or in the food pantry or closet . Check those potatoes for any rotten ones at the bottom. These flies are active nearly year round, but more so in the summer and fall.

The common fruit flies are light brown in color and with red eyes. They are attracted to and breed in over-ripe fruit and vegetables. In houses they are usually found in the kitchen, and sometimes around the sink or garbage container. They are attracted to the odors that come from the disposal or material in the sink or garbage.

^{Fruit Fly Illustration}

The dark brown fruit fly (without red eyes) is also common in houses. This species breeds in decaying organic material and even in animal feces. Check the fruit for red-eye fruit flies and decaying material for dark-eye fruit flies.

Control of these flies begins with removing the breeding material. This will stop the breeding but would not get the adults, since the adults can live for a week or so.

You can remove the adults from the house by placing some vinegar (or wine) in a shallow pan. Place the pan near where the adults have been seen. They will be attracted to the liquid and some will become trapped. The remainder will be around the pan, so you can use an aerosol insecticide to get those. Read more about Fruit Fly Control

More Fruit Fly Information:

• Fruit Life Cycle
• Fruit Fly Eggs
• Fruit Fly Larvae
• Fruit Fly Pupae
• Fruit Fly Metamorphosis
• Fruit Fly Reproduction Rates Data
• Fruit Fly Food
• Fruit Flies in Bananas
• Fruit Fly Feeding Habits
• Fruit Fly Genetics
• Biology of Fruit Flies
• Fruit Fly Length of Memory

Related Questions:
The Orkin Man used the information above to also answer the following questions submitted by Orkin.com users.

• Question: I been noticing Fruit Flies in my kitchen. I am not sure what brought them in, but how do I get rid of them?
• Question: Please help me find the right way to get rid of multiple “fruit flies” that are flying around my bedroom, bathrooms and kitchen. I am really grossed out by this! Just the right spray and instructions if you could?
• Question: How do you kill fruit flies?
• Question: I have gnat-sized flying insects that appear at night when I turn on a lamp. They attach to the inside of the lamp shade. They appear to be slightly red in color. Any idea what they could be?
• Question: I have a fruit fly problem but have very little money. Every time I think there gone they appear again. I used to work at nursing home where a pest company had some stuff that we dumped down the drain. I think that might be what I need. Please help.
• Question:We”ve recently been infested with fruit flies. We”ve owned this house for 4 years, and had never had a problem until a month and a half ago. We”ve taken all garbage outside, closed all closable drains, and put out home-made traps (cider vinegar mixed with soap in bowls covered with cellophane with a small hole). The traps are effective, but the flies don”t go away.Answer:The adults will live for about three weeks, so if you have removed the source, the adults may still hang around. Check to make certain that there is not a stray potato, an apple, or something that has gotten loose and rolled where you can”t see it….if this problem has gone on for as long as you say, there must be a breeding site somewhere in the house
• Question: I was wondering how to get rid of fruit flies – I was told that you can pour a 1/4 cup of bleach down the drain. I have tried that and still no luck. Do you have any other suggestions?
• Question: Can dogs be infested with fruit flies? We have a fruit fly problem in our house but I also noticed my dogs have the black “flea dirt” on them which is adult flea fecal matter. I found two things on one of my dogs this morning which I thought was a flea but it had wings. This was in the bathroom when I was in the shower and I also noticed “fruit flies” flying around in the bathroom. Then I noticed the two flea like creatures on my dog. Just curious if they are fruit flies on my dogs or fleas?Answer: They would be fleas and not fruit flies.
• Question: I have Orkin service…I am being bombarded with these little annoying flies in my kitchen, I have no idea where they are coming from. Is this something you treat or can you give me an idea on what to do?
• Question: How do we get rid of fruit flies in a restaurant? No matter how much we clean we cannot get rid of them. We have set up traps and everything. Please help.Question: You”ll have to do a thorough inspection and clean-up; if this is a persistent problem there is a breeding site somewhere (decaying fruit or vegetable). They may be coming from outside, but most likely inside.
• Question: How do I get rid of fruit flies? I have no fermented fruit. I”ve cleaned the kitchen drain. I dispose of fruit peelings, etc immediately. I”ve tried sprays but nothing seems to work. What can I do? I live in an apartment.

ANSWER  What you have are probably caterpillars of Indian meal moths. The adult moth is brown and tan-colored. The caterpillars can range from white to green to pink. The caterpillars may appear to be maggots because of their crawling habit and their pale color. Many people think they have a maggot problem when they first encounter Indian meal moth caterpillars.

ANSWER  Sowbugs or pillbugs (rolly pollys) are not actually insects. They are related to crayfish. There is a slight difference between sowbugs and pillbugs: sowbugs cannot roll up into a ball when disturbed, and pillbugs can.

They both live and breed in moist, decaying organic material and are usually found in areas around the perimeter of houses. A favorite location is under the bottom logs of the woodpile, under potted plants, or in wet mulch.
These animals usually remain outside, but may come inside when their habitat become too wet or even too dry. They enter under doors and around ground-level windows. They don”t reproduce in houses or basements because it is too dry and there is no food there for them. They are usually found dead just inside the door they have entered. This is often the case when the habitat is very dry, and they can not find a protected and humid harborage.

My guess is that your house has something favorable for them…thick mulch, leaves, moisture…if you reduce these, there should be fewer rolly pollys. Stack firewood up on a rack and move it away from the house. Rake mulch and dead leaves away from the foundation. Check exterior doors to be sure they close tightly. Replace any missing weather-stripping. Mke sure down spouts drain away from the foundation.

ANSWER 

Spiders, like most arachnids, are predatory. The majority spin webs to capture prey, but some are hunters. Their diet consists primarily of insects. Controlling a population of spiders is best done through reduction of food supply. Either by reducing the use of exterior lighting or changing bulbs to yellow “bug lights”, homeowners can decrease the number of insects in their surrounding areas.

A help in eradicating an outdoor spider problems is removing habitats friendly to insects. Piles of wood and mulch, leaves, and tall grass in unkept areas. Have the maintenance staff at your apartment complex make sure your doors are closing tightly and make sure the weather-stripping is working properly. Also, an insecticide barrier around the building can help reduce the number of insects and, therefore, spiders you encounter.

Indoor spiders can be controlled by routine vacuuming. You must get the webs, egg sacs, and spiders (when you see them). Small sticky traps designed for mice can work well, too. Place them in dark corners or near webs where you know the spiders to hang-out.

The local Orkin branch office can arrange to have a technician make an inspection. This will be necessary to determine the most effective treatment. Please contact them directly for more information or to schedule service.

Related Questions: The Orkin Man used the information above to also answer the following questions submitted by Orkin.com users

Question: What can I do to keep spiders out of my house and  kill them and the insects they”re eating?

Question: why do I have so many spiders around my house and backyard? My walls and windows are always covered with spider webs.

Question: Does treatment for spiders kill the egg sacks? I do not know if that is what they really are or if they are old, but there appears to be egg sack looking brown balls behind the fridge in my new apartment. An Orkin Man sprayed while I was away and didn”t think to ask about it in time.

ANSWER 

The price of a “typical” exterminator ranges. I am not well versed in the pricing packages of other pest control companies therefore I am not sure what the typical cost is. However, if you would like to know more about Orkin services and possibly our prices, I would recommend that you call a local Branch office so that they can help you determine the right solution to your pest control problem.

ANSWER  The local Orkin Branch office can tell you the insecticides that they are currently using, and the treatment process. There should not be any unusual vacuuming involved. The branch office can explain any preparation and follow-up that is involved.

You can find the local branch here: www.orkin.com/locations/

Read more about controlling bed bugs in your home.

ANSWER  Winged ants or flying ants may be seen almost any time of the year, but most often in the spring and the fall.

Ant colonies commonly produce these winged reproductives (called swarmers, which are males and females. Their job is to fly out from the colony to start new colonies. The presence of swarmers is an indication that there is a mature ant colony close by or in the house.

If you can locate where the winged ants are coming from, you will have a good idea where the nest is. You can direct treat the nest directly with insecticide. .

When you cannot find the nest, the best control strategy is to use baits. There are several types of ant bait, but liquid baits are usually the most effective. Baiting is a slow control method but it will eliminate the queen (or queens!). That will stop egg production  and eliminate the colony.

There are several different ant baits available — some are protein and some are sweet.  Sometimes it is necessary to try more than one. Ants change their feeding habits and food preferences during the year, and you can meet these better by having more than one bait available for use.

If the workers are moving around, put the bait next to their trail. Keep the bait filled until the ants have stopped feeding.

Related Questions:
The Orkin Man used the information above to also answer the following questions submitted by Orkin.com users.

Question: What do I do for flying ants? They are in my skylights.

Question: There seem to be a lot of flying ants around the outside of my home is there anything I can do to correct this problem?

ANSWER  It”s hard to be sure, but from the description, they sound like carpet beetle larvae. They are brown and banded with brown and pale stripes. There are long ”hairs” at the tail end.  They move slowly.   People often find the molted skins of these larvae in cabinets and in closets. They are an indication of an ongoing infestation of carpet beetles. The adults are often seen indoors in the spring.

The larvae can feed on lots of different kinds of material.  Thus,  it can infest almost any place in your house.  It often attacks woolens, skins, leather, feathers and stored food (from pet food to spices and flour).  It can even live on dead insects.

Here are some thing you can do:

• Vacuum thoroughly.
• Dry-clean and store woolens in sealed containers or boxes.
• Check leather items, dried flower arrangements, and even silks — flowers and garments.
• Check the pantry and kitchen cabinets for infested food.
• Throw away any infested packages.
• Vacuum shelves in cabinets

If your inspection doesn”t turn up anything, check the attic, crawl space and outside of the house. Look for bird, wasp, or rodent nests where the carpet beetles could be breeding.

ANSWER  Yellowjackets are common in many different environments, from residential yards to forests. These insects are predators of flies and caterpillars during the spring and summer.

They are not easily controlled, especially after they have established a large nest under the siding of the house. These nests may contain hundreds of workers and they have the ability (and an attitude!) to sting many times. Control should proceed with caution.

First, you will have to locate the opening to the nest–I guess you have done that.  Try to pinpoint the opening; you will have to be able to find it later, in the dark.

Get some of the aerosol sprays that are designed for wasp nest control. These aerosols deliver a concentrated stream of liquid that can penetrate the nest and immobilize the wasps quickly (get more than one can!). Work at night (well after dark), wear protective clothing (especially on your head); don”t work alone. Use a red light to guide you (insects don”t see red).

If you can direct the aerosol liquid to the nest opening or even close, that may immobilize the wasps inside for a while. Give it a good dose of the aerosol liquid; it evaporates quickly and you want to soak the area around the nest. The next day there may be wasps flying around the nest site, give them a day or so to wander off.

Please, avoid the temptation to use gasoline or some other “unusual” material instead of the commercial aerosols and liquid insecticide.  Things like gasoline are dangerous, do not work as well as people think, and things can happen that are not good.

Once the wasps have been killed, you will have to remove the nest if it is in the wall or attic of a house. Leaving the nest will attract other insects, such as carpet beetles, moths, aqnd other scavengers.

ANSWER  The carpet will be treated, so it should be cleared of clothes, shoes, toys, and any other loose items.

If you have pets, wash the pet bedding.  Vacuum furniture that pets come into contact with.  Tell the pest control technician where pets normally rest.

Vaccuum around the house as well.

If the yard will be treated, be sure the grass is mowed. Pick up any pet dishes and move any lawn furniture out of the shaded areas where the technician will be treating.

It is normal to see fleas for a couple of weeks after the carpet has been treated. Your technician will explain the treatment process and any follow-up procedures besides vacuuming.

Read more about getting rid of fleas in home here: http://www.orkin.com/ask-the-orkin-man/get-rid-of-fleas-in-home

ANSWER: Mouse control takes a little time and patience. Mice usually stay close to their nests, so if there are sounds in the attic and the crawl space, there may be more than one problem. Noises in the attic might also be rats or squirrels. The time when they are active will be a clue. Squirrels are active during the day. Mice and rats are usually active at night.

The control program really should begin with the question: “How did they get in here?”  Take some time to inspect the exterior of your house. You’re looking for any potential entry point that the mice could enter through. It may be a small opening that seems harmless or something larger. Particularly, pay attention to cracks, openings around wiring or pipes, and garage and other doors providing access to interior areas. If you find anywhere that a mouse could potentially enter, be sure to block it. When inspecting upstairs, be sure to check the roof. Trim any tree limbs that are hanging over the house.

Once all entry points are located, it’s time to capture the mice already inside. The most effective method is traps. The more snap traps you use, the quicker and more effective your campaign will be. Mice simply breed too fast for one or two traps to be effective for infestations. I always like to incentivize them, so my mouse traps have bait in them. Be it food, string, or cloth, mice like these and will be drawn to the traps. Take care to keep out of reach of children and pets.

Though poisonous baits are effective, they don’t control the mouse’s actions after eating. Often time, mice will eat these baits and end up behind a wall or other inaccessible area to die. They create a very unpleasant odor for weeks and attract other pests.

More information on mouse problems.

Related Questions:
The Orkin Man used the information above to also answer the following questions submitted by Orkin.com users.

Question: I have a severe infestation of mice in the crawlspace under my house. This house is situated in the woods. How far apart does your company place bait traps to eliminate this problem?

ANSWER  What you have seen is a house centipede. They can vary in size and color from light brown to pale brown. Their long legs and their rapid movements can be a little scary. Centipedes can deliver a painful bite if they are handled. It”s the spider and insects in the house that have something to worry about, since they are the preferred food for centipedes!

The house centipede lives outdoors, but is often found around the foundation of houses and other buildings. Centipedes prefer to rest in secluded places during the day.  From these sites they may enter ground level rooms. They may use door thresholds or gaps in the foundation.  They do not come through drains (myth).

These animals are predators of spiders and insects. There are no nests of centipedes; they are independent hunters and do not gather together in one place. The young forage for themselves; they are smaller than the adults and about the same coloration (and speed).

House centipedes are out mostly at night. You can apply an aerosol insecticide into the crack behind the baseboards where you have seen them. Placing sticky traps (such as those for cockroaches) in the area can be very helpful.

Make sure exterior doors close tightly and replace any missing weather-stripping. Move the woodpile as far from the house as possible. Rake mulch and dead leaves away from the foundation and keep grass mowed. An insecticide barrier on the outside perimeter can help prevent insects and centipedes from trying to get inside.

Related Questions:
The Orkin Man used the information above to also answer the following questions submitted by Orkin.com users.

Question: I have a centipede problem in my house, what is the best way to get rid of them, and how much would you charge to do that for me?

Question: Do you have solutions for centipedes and millipedes?

Question: Does Orkins treatments take care of centipedes?

Question: We had used Terminix about 4 years ago trying to get rid of a problem with centipedes but the company was never successful. Can you get rid of centipedes?  Do centipedes come from the drain pipes?

Question:My girlfriend and I recently moved into a condo in Brighton MA. Recently we have been seeing the house centipede.  Would your company be able to get rid of either of these bugs in our unit or does the entire condo need to be exterminated?

ANSWER  Probably what you have seen is a cicada killer. The scientific name is Sphecius speciosus. These are large wasps, indeed one of the largest you are likely to see. They can look very threatening, but in general, they are not. They are dedicated to  making a nest, provisioning it with food, and laying an egg on that food.

The wasps prey on the annual cicada, so they have to be large enough to handle these big insects! The wasp typically grabs a cicada from the branches of a tree, stings the cicada to immobilize it, and then carries it back to the hole it has made in the soil.

The cicada is pushed inside the hole and the female wasp lays an egg on top of it. The egg hatches in a few days and the immature wasp feeds on the cicada. When full grown the wasp spins a cocoon and will not emerge from the ground until next summer. This is a big and threatening wasp, but they are not very aggressive. They prefer soft soil and can be controlled with a light spray of insecticide on the soil surface.

The local Orkin branch can answer any questions about the service process. Please contact them directly for more information or to schedule service.

Related Questions:
The Orkin man used the information above to also answer the following questions.

Question:I have a large insect flying around my yard and have recently noticed several mounds of sand/dirt piled up around my concrete porch. I have not yet been able to accurately identify the insect, or how to eliminate it and whatever might be living underground. Please contact me as soon as possible to discuss.

Question:I have about 12-20 holes in my yard. they have been dug by these wasp- looking insects. They have the body of a wasp, with wings more like a bee. They look like they have stingers. The holes are about pinky-sized. The bugs don”t seem too aggressive but their nests cover most of my yard. I have an infant so I”m uncertain about taking her outside. The bugs seem to hover over the area of their nests. We have tried spraying at night when they have all gone back into their holes but when we spray one hole, they come out of another, which makes me think that their holes are all connected, like little tunnels. Some are as small as 3/4″ and a few are about 1″-1 1/2″. i live in Logansport, Indiana. Is there any way you could help me find out exactly what these little pests are. I am highly allergic to bees and wasps, and most stinging insects.

Question:: Every year during the month of August we have a swarm of bugs in our back yard only. To me the bug looks like a hornet. But I cannot find any pictures that look like the bug in my yard. The bugs swarm the grass only, and there are many of them like 50 or more! Please can you tell me what type of flying insect this is.

ANSWER 

The brown recluse spider is often misidentified, or to put it another way, some other species of spiders are mistakenly identified  as brown recluse spiders.

Follow these simple guidelines for identifying a spider as a recluse.  They are nearly uniformly pale brown to light brown spiders. Their legs are not striped and not especially ”hairy. The violin shape on the ”head region” is distinct, but some other spiders have this mark.  The brown recluse when full grown, and legs extended is about the size of a 25¢ coin.

Of course, when in doubt it is always safe to be cautious. It is of little value to over-react to the presence of any spider.  They are not aggressive animals, and bite when cornered or brushed against.

The bite of a brown recluse spider can be serious. Experts recommend seeking medical attention for a bite victim. If possible, take the spider along for positive identification.

As for cost of treatment, please contact a local Orkin Branch.

ANSWER  Controlling wasp nests is not easy and often dangerous, be careful!

If the nest is out of the way–as yours seems to be  – it may be best to leave it alone. These insects are not naturally aggressive if the nest is not disturbed.  The workers and queen will die when winter comes. The new queens will hibernate until spring when they will start new nests.

If the nest must be removed, consider these procedures. First, you will have to locate the opening to the nest; you can do this by carefully observing (not too close) the coming and going of wasps in the area. Try to pinpoint the opening; you will have to be able to find it later, in the dark.

Use one of the aerosol sprays that are designed for wasp nest control. These aerosols deliver a concentrated stream of liquid that can penetrate the nest and immobilize the wasps quickly (get more than one can!). Work at night (well after dark), wear protective clothing and goggles, and don”t work alone.

At night the wasps will be in the nest. Use caution — when the stream of insecticide hits the nest, some of the wasps will come out. Try to avoid standing on a ladder to do the treatment — many people get excited and fall off of the ladder when the wasps start flying around.

After the wasps have been killed, the nest may attract insect scavengers unless you can knock it down and throw it away.

Next Video >>

Travel Tips to Help Avoid Bed Bugs on Spring Break

Spring breakers want sun, fun and relaxation – not bed bugs – on vacation. Check out these travel tips from Orkin to help you avoid bringing bed bugs home as souvenirs:

– Inspect the mattress for bed bugs or black, ink-like spots. Alert hotel management if you find either.
– Check your luggage rack. If it’s clear of bed bugs, store luggage on the rack instead of the floor.
– Inspect your luggage for bed bugs before check-out and once you return home.

Watch this video for more helpful tips before you travel.

Still want more info? Ask the Orkin Man

ANSWER 

^{Orkin Man Completing
Treatment for Termites}

Now. A home is a major investment that you want to protect, and protection starts with termite prevention. Almost all homes should have a termite treatment and be inspected by a licensed pest control company like Orkin. The company should not only treat but evaluate the environmental factors around the home looking for attractive conditions for termites such as woodpiles, water leaks, and foundation penetrations.

ANSWER  The appropriate treatment for moths depends on the type of moth present in your home. Some moths infest dried food, some attack fabrics, and others may simply fly inside after being attracted to lights. Identification is extremely important when dealing with moths as there are several thousand different species. If you notice these pests in your home, call your local pest control expert who can identify the type of moth and suggest appropriate treatment methods.

ANSWER It is important to note that if you have a spider problem, you likely have a pest problem. Spiders are predators and make a living eating pests such as bugs. They may wander in your home searching for these pests. If you want to rid your home of spiders, a great first step is to contact a licensed pest management professional to first rid your home of the spider’s food source which is other pests. In addition the specialist can employ spider control tools to catch or repel the spiders. Finally there are some highly effective strategies Orkin recommends you can do to make your home less attractive to spiders:

• Seal off potential entries like cracks and crevices, spaces under doors (install door sweeps), holes in screens, etc.
• Inhibit their ability to create webs by cleaning, dusting, removing clutter etc.
• Reduce lights on the outside which may attract other pests.

ANSWER  There are several important qualities a pest control company / professional should possess, such as:

• A pest control license
• Ability to provide a free on-site inspection before providing a quote for treatment
• Expert knowledge of pest identification and treatment
• A guarantee of service from a stable company with a reputation for providing effective pest prevention, treatment and control

ANSWER  Pests want what we have – food, water and shelter. Many pests such as roaches and even rodents can fit through tiny cracks and crevices in search of these resources. This can happen no matter how clean your house may be. Other pests like bed bugs are not related to cleanliness at all. They are hitchhikers in search of a blood meal that people can easily – and often unknowingly – provide. It is best to have a trusted professional conduct a thorough inspection to identify pest risk factors around your home. For tips on protecting you and your family from unwanted pests, please visit HiddenHomeThreats.pdf

ANSWER 

^{Termite Swarm}

In some cases, homeowners have no idea there is an infestation until they see hundreds to sometimes thousands of winged termite swarmers or they see their discarded wings on windowsills, floors or in spider webs. Another sign a homeowner may notice is the termite damage, such as eaten pieces of wood, or sand-grain like droppings.

While termite colonies are extremely difficult to see, there are several signs of termite infestation/activity that every homeowner should know.

Subterranean Termites: Mud Tubes – Subterranean termites usually invade the home from the ground. Mud tubes are built above ground so termite workers can reach wood or cellulose areas of a structure from their underground nests. The purposes of the mud tubes are to protect the termites from predators like ants and to prevent them from drying out since they need high relative humidity.

Drywood Termites: Frass (Termite Droppings) – Drywood termites don’t usually attack from the ground. They invade by the swarmers entering structures through cracks in the structure and then boring directly into the wood, sealing the hole and mating. As they eat their way through wood, they produce frass, or droppings, that are all the same size and shape though they may vary in color from tan to brick red to black depending on the color of the wood.

^{Photo of a Mosquito Biting a Human}

ANSWER  Orkin created its Fight the Bite campaign to help save lives in Africa and help American homeowners reclaim their yards by waging war on mosquitoes and the deadly diseases they can carry. In cooperation with Nothing But Nets, a non-profit group dedicated to malaria prevention in Africa, Orkin and its sister pest control companies have donated over $125,000 in 2008 and estimates at least another $120,000 in 2009. For every new mosquito customer Orkin contributes $10 for 10,000 long-lasting, insecticide-treated mosquito bed nets to be delivered to the areas of greatest need in Africa.

One hundred percent of each $10 contribution goes directly toward purchasing and distributing a net and teaching the recipient to use it properly.

ANSWER  Convenient financing is offered for up to 100% of the agreement. Benefits include:
– No penalty for early payoff
– No collateral requirements
– 90 days same as cash
– Affordable monthly payments
– Immediate approval at your home

ANSWER  Orkin recently launched a Wildlife Management Service in some parts of the country to assist customers with birds, squirrels, raccoons and other wildlife control. This program includes capture and relocation, as well as exclusion services. For details regarding Orkin’s Wildlife Management Service and to find out if it is available in your area, call your local branch.

ANSWER Carpenter ants can be black, brown, red, or a combination of these colors. They can be easily distinguished from most other pest ants by the carpenter ant’s “heart-shaped” head. Carpenter ants can be found throughout the U.S. and are named for their ability to excavate nests in wood, creating smooth tunnels or galleries. In the U.S. few other ant species have this behavior.

Carpenter ant damage is sometimes confused with that of termites, which also damage wood. Unlike termites that eat wood, carpenter ants hollow out wood, leaving behind small piles of sawdust. Carpenter ants prefer to build nests within decaying, moist wood – sometimes creating multiple nests in a single area. They are commonly found in porch pillars, roofs, windowsills, dead trees and dead parts of living trees.

^{carpenter ant picture}

ANSWER Orkin’s pest and termite specialists are the best trained in the industry. The Orkin Training Center is one of the industry’s only hands-on training facilities in the country. The Training Center includes a fully functional house which provides Orkin experts with real-life pest, rodent and termite control experience. Orkin TV, a one-of-a-kind satellite television network, links to our 8,000 employees across the country to provide ongoing training on pest control products and service methods.

Additionally, all Orkin employees undergo rigorous drug screenings and criminal background checks prior to being hired. These screenings are followed by annual motor vehicle report checks and random employee drug testing.

Orkin’s thorough training and screening measures are what set Orkin pest control specialists apart from the average exterminator.

ANSWER  Geckoes are common in houses and buildings that are surrounded by vegetation especially homes that have shaded yards. They are pests simply by their presence indoors. They do not live in or infest houses, but come in from surrounding vegetation to find insects (food).

Usually they are following the insects that are attracted to outdoor lights. Lights often attract moths and many other insects. Of course, geckoes don”t bite people or animals, and would eventually move out of the house, unless they get lost indoors.

The best control strategy is to keep them out by keeping doors and windows closed or screened. Replace missing or damaged weather-stripping. Reducing the vegetation around the house and limiting outdoor lights at night may also be helpful.

There is no straightforward formula which can be used to determine the cost to get rid of wasps. The type of wasp, location, danger to people, and size of the infestation will all play into determining the cost to get rid of wasps.

Wasps can be stinging and aggressive or relatively docile. Only female wasps sting but many wasps sting repeatedly and if they are aggressive, this can be life threatening to those with allergic reactions. Some wasps build paper or “cell” nests and these typically must be removed.

Removal or stinging insects requires special care. The cost to get rid of wasps will usually start at several hundred dollars for a relatively small infestation to higher prices for more extensive infestations. There is specialized safety equipment and tools necessary and therefore the reason for this price range.

When pricing our services, we take into account many factors such as the square footage, foundation, and geographic location of your home.  Though you did mention the square footage of your home, only an inspection by a technician will allow Orkin to give the current cost of the wasp removal service. The technician will be able to identify the species, the severity of the infestation and, of course, other factor already mentioned.

Please contact a local Branch office to schedule an inspection today.

ANSWER  Ant colonies and termite colonies produce swarmers during a certain time of the year. For ant colonies, these are sometimes called ”flying ants” or swarmers. These individuals are males and females (future queens) and are capable of reproduction. The workers in an ant colony are usually sterile females and can not lay eggs. The process of swarming is important for starting new colonies.

You can distinguish swarming ants from swarming termites by looking closely at some important body parts. (A magnifying glass can help with the identification.) Ants have a narrow waist and bent antennae, and they do not immediately shed their wings. Winged termites have no waist and straight antennae. They shed their wings soon after they emerge. If there is some doubt as to what you have, it might be best to have a professional look at the swarmers to make a determination.

Question: I bought this house and it has bats in the living area since. Can you help. I know they are protected, but I would like to keep my wife.

ANSWER  Bats are not easily eliminated from inside the attic or wall voids of a building. In most areas there are restrictions on killing them, so the methods used to ”encourage” them to leave and take up residence somewhere else have to be humane. When bats are roosting in houses or other buildings, the main objective is to get them to leave, and then prevent them from reentering. Netting and other exclusion devices are intended to  let bats out, but not let them back in.

Despite the risk of rabies, bats are beneficial in controlling insects.  States usually have laws protecting bats. There are no pesticides registered to control bat.

Bat removal should not be undertaken when there are young that might be left behind in the roost, usually form May until mid-August. Check with the local Fish and Game Dept. for the specific timing.

In many areas, the best time to control bats is in late summer or fall (when the bats have left for the winter) and not in spring and summer. Sealing should be done between September and February.

Bats leave their overwintering sites to form ”nursery colonies” in early spring. Attics and spaces between ceilings and the roof are primary “nursery” locations. The young are cared for until they can fly in 3-7 weeks.

After the bats are excluded from the attic or other roost site, you will need to treat the site with a residual insecticide.  This will kill mites and bat bugs which may be there. If there is an accumulation of droppings, you will need to take precautions against inhaling fungal spores that cause respiratory diseases. Consider gently wetting the droppings with a disinfectant before trying to remove them.

ANSWER  Probably what you have are springtails. This is a good name for them, since they hop by using their tail. Springtails do not bite people or pets, but they can be a nuisance when they occur in large numbers.They are often found in moist locations outside houses. Sometimes they are found inside in kitchens, bathrooms, and ground-level rooms.

These small insects do not reproduce in houses; they simply invade from the outside.    They prefer humid locations and must have high humidity to survive.  They are easily controlled by vacuuming or finding a way to dry the site.They may also be controlled with the use of an aerosol spray.

The best long-term solution is to dry the location and keep it dry. A dehumidifier may be helpful in a damp basement. If the crawlspace is damp, check to be sure the vents are open and not blocked. If dampness continues to be a problem, look outdoors at drainage. Make sure gutters are clear and downspouts drain away from the house.

You should contact the local Branch office of Orkin for estimates on the cost of pest control service and for scheduling service.

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Related Questions:
The Orkin Man used the information above to also answer the following questions submitted by Orkin.com users.

Question: How do you get rid of springtails?

Question: Looks like we have an infestation of flea-like critters. They jump, aren”t easy to squish with just pressure, but don”t seem to bite. They”re getting into the kitchen, bathroom, and now into some fabric. They have two pronounced antenna and most are smaller than 1-2mm. They are all over the outside of the house, and have appeared most recently when a field behind out house was plowed.

Question: Hi. I”ve been searching the web forever and can”t identify these little critters. They are very small, but visible. They live seemingly in the dirt and rocks outside my home, but do come in frequently. They definitely jump. However, they dont resemble any flea photos I”ve seen. My best description is like a tiny almost clear colored cockroach.They dont seem to favor any one place, they are absolutely every where. If you could help, Id greatly appreciate it!

ANSWER  Maybe what you have are Indian meal moths–the caterpillar stage. The adult moth is brown and tan colored, and the caterpillars are usually a dirty beige, but they can a;so range from green to pink. The caterpillars may appear to be maggots because of their pale color.

The caterpillars of these moths infest stored food materials, such as flour, meal, mixes, cereal, spices, birdseed, dry pet food, dry flowers, and other similar material. You can identify the infested material by the silken webbing over the surface of the food. The caterpillars often move out and crawl on walls and the ceiling when they are ready to change into adult moths.

The adult moths live for about three weeks, and can persist after the caterpillars have been controlled.

The best control method is to remove everything from the kitchen cabinets. Inspect all of the packages and discard any food that is infested. Then vacuum the area very well. After vacuuming, replace the material, and vacuum again in about a week.

Try to inspect items that you bring home from the store. As much as possible, store food in sealed containers.

ANSWER  Table salt might kill a flea, but it will probably not control a flea infestation.

Home flea control begins with treating the animal, then treating the home. Both steps must be done simultaneously.  Your yard might need to be treated also.

Read more about Orkin home treatment for fleas.